During my ten-day stay I formed tentative impressions of three cities on Crete. Such casual research will really tell more about the observer than the observed but I offer it here anyway. Here is a comparison of three cities on Crete:
--Agios Nickolaus
--Heraklio
--Hania
AGIOS NICKOLAUS – THE VISTA
Not charming. This is developed for tourism. There’s nothing to tell me I’m not in Mexico or Cuba. There is a dramatic lake in the exact center of downtown.
AGIOS NICKOLAUS – THE PEOPLE
The people are lacking flavor, kind of small town. Bored teenagers dominate the scene. This is the Peoria of Greece. The former US Air Force Base left a crassness here. They are accustomed to serving foreigners and it feels just like that: they’re serving you. It’s not exactly pleasant. Mass tourism stole something from this place.
HERAKLIO – THE VISTA
Pleasing, sort of old. It immediately looks like the E.U. but with a Greek twist on everything. Looks like modern Turkey. Huge Venetian walls from 1500 AD ring the downtown. The waterfront has many cannon emplacements for killing Turks and Genoans.
HERAKLIO – THE PEOPLE
Urban, lively, modern. The intelligentsia are in the cafes. The number of good bookstores is amazing; they could call Iraklion ‘the city of books’. It’s obviously a university town. This is the Toronto of Greece. The paradigm is “we are almost Athens”. Life is (for Crete) very fast paced, i.e. the lunch siesta is kept to a strict 3 hours and then back to work. They’ve entered the 21st Century (or at least the latter 20th) in a healthy, legitimate way. They have self-respect and treat foreigners as peers. Orientalism is just a leit motif, Brussels and the E.U. are in the air. I think the #1 getaway for locals is a weekend in Athens.
HANIA – THE VISTA
Orientalism abounds. Minarets are everywhere. One minaret even still has its crescent moon on the peak. Lots and lots of public benches. Many old 19th Century statues of Greek Patriots.
HANIA – THE PEOPLE
Men of all ages finger their prayer beads. The mood is Asiatic rather than European. Though the town is large you half expect an occaisional donkey cart to appear. Though reasonably modern, they retain their traditions and it makes them beautiful. There is supposedly a University here but I think the “town” dominates the “gowns”, unlike in Heraklio. The year feels like 1960. These people understand the West and can do the Western thing but everything is underpinned by their intact Hellenic traditions. I think the #1 getaway for locals is a weekend back in their village.
But are my impressions accurate at all? I welcome feedback.
Because as a traveler in faraway places, perhaps I only see aspects of my own home. This is the case in Italo Calvino’s Invisible Cities. There comes a point when Kublai Khan suspects something is fishy about Marco Polo’s tales of far away cities and he challenges Marco.
“There is still one city of which you never speak,” the Khan said, “Venice.”
Marco Polo smiled. “What else do you believe I have been talking to you about? Every time I describe a city I am saying something about Venice.”
Recent Comments